About

Looking to get into DSLR video?

This is the place!

Whether you’re a pro photographer looking to move into video, a working videographer looking to add DSLR’s to your tool kit, or just learning about creating great video with DSLR camera here’s what you’ll find in this site:

  • Equipment reviews and recommendations
  • Tips, trick and secrets to making the most of DSLR video
  • Late breaking news from this exploding technology
  • Information about sound, support, lighting and editing systems
  • Links to information that will help you make the best DSLR video possible

My name is Adriel Brunson and I’ve been a producer for over 30 years. Beginning in audio production, I’ve produced hundreds of programs in video, film, multimedia, and interactive media. My international client list includes international companies such as Hewlett-Packard, Sun MicroSystems, Microsoft, General Electric as well as numerous national and regional companies.

I have a lifelong passion for technology and know how–and when–to apply new media solutions to proven marketing strategies. With many years of working with like-minded professionals, I’ve learned the win-win benefit of mentoring and welcome any opportunity to help others advance their production careers.
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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Jason Mongue June 9, 2010 at 5:28 pm

Long time follower/admirer of your blog and thought I’d share a timelapse video I just finished putting together. Shot with a 7D, edited to music.
Ciao,
Jason

http://vimeo.com/12437586

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adriel June 9, 2010 at 6:50 pm

Jason,
Thanks for the comment, nice work. I look forward to seeing more…
-a-

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Mark nichols May 21, 2012 at 7:17 pm

So this is a pretty awesome and cheap alternative to the on board monitors, which as we all know are sometime an expensive pain. This product was invented a couple of years ago by me, an LA director of photography. It fits on the rails and is basically a big ass magnifying glass which gets you about 2 to 4 times closer to the LCD. It’s called the Magnifty and we’re selling it now on our ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/Magnifty or at Samy’s Camera in LA and Pasadena. It’s $79.95. Super-durable and is supposed to fit on your rails or varying sizes, but for sure Red Rock. Watch the VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hmy7LJEy3tM I’ve used mine for over two years and don’t leave home without it. It really does work. I also stack two of them together and get SUPER close at times. Other advantages are that it provides a great stability point and allow you to make and attach a sun shade for bright days. Allows you to use both your eyes to focus as opposed to the monocle concept. There’s a patent pending. What else…? Ah yes, we have a warning which might seem obvious: Don’t shoot into the sun with it. I’ve done it and it can give you a nasty tan and hurt your eyes. It’s a magnifying glass! If you’ve ever burned leaves with one using the sun you get the idea…

Thanks! ~mark

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adriel June 24, 2012 at 11:50 am

Interesting product, looks like it could be useful for many situations. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
-a-

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Peter Stockley June 16, 2012 at 11:11 pm

Hi Adriel,
I have loaded the Christmas edition of Magic Lantern onto my T2i and am a little confused about how to start up ML. For instance, when I try to select an ISO in ML of say ISO 320 then exit the ML menu by again pressing the Trash button, I am still shown Canons native ISO that was previously used of ISO 400 when it should be showing ISO 320. In fact, the shutter speed, aperture and ISO all appear in white letters and numbers at the bottom of the LCD screen when I believe they should be colored when using ML.
The ML user guide on the camera leaves me even more confused, for instance, some information says the following:
Only native ISO’s, (100, 200, 400 etc) are used for best dynamic range.
Also:
ISO Selection
All values: use all available ISO speeds, in 1/8 EV steps
100x, 160: use only native ISO’s (multiples of 100) and ISO values with lower digital
gain (multiples of 160).

What does this all mean?
At present during recording in movie mode, I do have the audio bars working at the top of the LCD screen which I believe are only shown when running Magic Lantern.
I’ve looked on many forums for answers but have only found others who (like myself) are experiencing the same problem when trying to select ML settings. What am I doing wrong Adriel? I would really appreciate your help if you have the time.
Thank you.

Regards

Peter Stockley

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adriel June 24, 2012 at 11:32 am

Peter,
If you’re seeing the audio levels at the top of the LCD screen you are running ML. So far, so good.

ISO selection for me runs like this. If I’ve got the time to shoot a series of tests with different ISO settings and a really good calibrated monitor to check the results of those test on, I’ll play around looking for a perfect combination of minor changes in lighting, ISO, f-stop and shutter speed.

If I want to start shooting in a safe, quick and guaranteed successful setup I go with native ISO settings. If you can shoot at 400 ISO you’re not going to have much noise in the dark parts of the video. If your lens wide open won’t let you shoot a good image at the ISO put more light on the scene or crank up the ISO to 800 and live with a bit of noise. Past ISO 800 the T2i starts to get pretty noisy but it still shoots good video and you can use noise reduction filters in post to clean up the worst of it.

It’s great to be able to work the camera in 1/8 EV steps to make a good shot really great but you’ll need a really great monitor to be able to see what you’re doing. But if you use a light meter and take the time to learn your camera, your lens and your best setup for all other factors you can hit the setup pretty quickly from a light reading and a pre-determined setup. Write everything down in a notebook and take a quick photo of the lighting setup so you can repeat it again if needed. There’s a learning curve to being a good cinematographer but it’s worth the effort.

I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
-a-

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Anon Nymous January 22, 2013 at 5:30 am

I see a face.

I see some statements from someone that says he’s been in the biz for 30 years, working with a lot of big name clients.

What I don’t see is a name attached to the “ABOUT” page.
Who is this bearded guy, anyways?

Reply

Adriel Brunson January 26, 2013 at 10:58 am

Interesting comment from someone posting as anonymous.

Still, it’s a good point. So, for the record, my name is Adriel Brunson and I’ve added that to the “About” page.

Reply

Lars June 20, 2013 at 7:06 pm

Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to shoot "flat" or with a higher dynamic range for my Nikon D600. I want to use Color Grading, but I am not sure if there are special settings to help improve color.

 

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Adriel Brunson June 22, 2013 at 1:12 pm

Lars,

There are two viewpoints on color profiles.

One perspective is get the image as close to “right” as you can when you shoot and use grading tools to make minor adjustments in post production.

The other perspective is to shoot with as flat a profile as possible to capture as much color information as you can. The images shot this way look washed out as the blacks and whites are pulled toward center. If you shoot flat you will always have to grade the clips. You may even need to do a rough grade just to get through the edit as the flat images can cause issues with client review – the video will look “bad” until it’s graded.

I go both ways depending on the production requirements. If you want to find or create flat profiles for your Nikon D600 just search on Google for “nikon d600 flat profile” and you’ll find links to downloads and instructions.

I highly recommend practicing with shooting flat and grading before taking it through a project for a client. There’s a lot to learn here. But adding this to your tool kit is worth the effort as the resulting video can be stunningly better.

Hope this helps,

 -a-

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